Grilled abalone

What it is

Abalone are sea snails with flat, ear-shaped shells lined with mother-of-pearl. In Chinese cooking the meat is a luxury, served at banquets as one of the four sea delicacies. Grilling is one of many ways to cook it.

Where it comes from

Most abalone eaten today is farmed, because overfishing and poaching have cut wild stocks. Farming for meat began in Japan and China in the late 1950s and early 1960s, and Taiwan is now one of the main farming regions.

How it is made

Grill houses cook it over charcoal or wood. At Apis Grill in Kaohsiung the kitchen works with a large longan-wood kiln and charcoal grills behind the counter.

How to eat it

Treat it as one course in a grilled meal. Supply varies, so ask whether it is on that day.

In Kaohsiung

At Apis Grill, where diners sit at the counter facing the fire, Michelin's inspectors advise ordering the abalone if it is available.